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Visit this Greco-Roman town, also mentioned in the Bible, snugly located in a hillside of northern Jordan, and marvel at the sweeping view of Lake Tiberias and the Golan Heights from atop this Decapolis. Kindle that transcendental feeling, as you walk through the path of ancient flourishing civilizations, their remnants telling the story of the many travellers who entered its ancient gates; from the Macedonians, who first established their acropolis, to the Romans, Byzantines, Umayyads and Ottomans.

Situated on a broad promontory 378 meters above sea level, this town was known as Gadara, one of the ancient Greco-Roman cities of the Decapolis, and according to the Bible, the spot where Jesus cast out the Devil from two demoniacs (mad men) into a herd of pigs (Mathew 8:28-34). In ancient times, Gadara was strategically situated, laced by a number of key trading routes connecting Syria and Palestine. It was blessed with fertile soil and abundant rainwater. This town also flourished intellectually and became distinguished for its cosmopolitan atmosphere, attracting writers, artists, philosophers and poets, the likes of Satirist Menippos (second half of the 3^rd century BC), the epigrammist, Meleagros (ca.110-40 BC), and the rhetorician, Theodoros (AD14-37). Gadara was also the resort of choice for Romans vacationing in the nearby Himmet Gader Springs.

Archaeological surveys indicate that Gadara was occupied as early as the 7^th century BC. The Greek historian, Polybius, described the region as being under Ptolemic control at the time. The Seleucid ruler Antiochus III conquered it in 218 BC, naming the city Antiochia and Seleucia. In 63 BC, Pompey liberated Gadara and joined it to the Roman league of ten cities, the Decapolis. Soon after, the fortunes of Gadara improved rapidly and building was undertaken on a large scale, carried out for the love of Pompey's freed man, Demetrius, who had been born there.

During these early years of Roman rule, the Nabateans (with their capital in Petra) controlled the trade routes as far north as Damascus. Unhappy with the competition, Mark Anthony dispatched King Herod the Great to weaken the Nabateans, who finally gave up their northern interest in 31 BC. In appreciation for his efforts, Rome rewarded Herod with Gadara.

The city reached its peak of prosperity in 2^nd century AD and new colonnaded streets, temples, theatres and baths sprouted. Meleagros compared Gadara with Athens, which testifies to the city's status as a creative centre of Hellenism in the ancient Near East.

Christianity spread slowly among the inhabitants of Gadara. Starting from the 4^th Century, its bishop attended the ecclesiastical councils of Nicaea, Chaleedon, and Ephesos. Despite his attendance, the city was no longer a seat of learning. During the 6^th century, decline set in, and in AD 636 a decisive military clash between Byzantines and Arab Muslims took place not far from Gadara. However, there is no evidence of widespread destruction in the city.

Umm Qais's charm still lingers today. A large portion of the Western Roman Theatre, has survived history's upheavals. Vaulted passageway support its rows of seats, built of hard basalt stones. A row of elaborately carved seats for dignitaries stand near the orchestra, and in the centre was a large headless marble statue of Tyche, now displayed at the local museum.

A cross from the theatre is the colonnaded street, which was in all likelihood the town's commercial centre. Also, near the black basalt theatre is the Terrace , which hosts an atrium [courtyard], a church and a basilica. Further west of the Terrace and along the east-west Colonnaded Street [decumanus], ruins of the Nymphaeum, a bath complex and a well-preserved Roman Mausoleum can be seen. After a few hundred meters one can barely make out the remains of what once was a Hippodrome.